Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to discover these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.